Today's Top Stories
Full Post

Three Nights in Kalalau

IMG_3473-2

First formed around 5 million years ago, Kauai is the oldest of the Hawaiian islands. (It’s almost twice as old as Oahu.)

The spires of Kalalau, Kauai, Hawaii

Kaui reveals its age through it’s wild topography. On the island you’ll find two extremes. On one end there’s the 3,600 ft deep Waimea Canyon, and on the other you have this place, the Na Pali coast, where the sea cliffs reach as high as 4,000 ft tall.

Kalalau Beach and Kalalau Stream in Kauai, Hawaii

The most extreme landscape you’ll find along the Na Pali coast is in Kalalau. Here you’ll find the iconic fluted ridges and pointy spires that have been formed by millions of years of erosion.

The walls of Kalalau Valley, Kauai, Hawaii

Kalalau Valley is a lush and sacred place that’s surrounded by sheer towering walls. The valley goes back about 2 miles and is about half a mile wide. At one time it was home to native Hawaiians and remnants of their settlements remain. Now, Kalalau Valley and surrounding areas have been designated a state park (called the Na Pali Coast State Wilderness Park) which protects the area from development.

Relaxing in a waterfall in Kalalau Stream, Kauai, Hawaii

Kalalau Valley is home to Kalalau Stream which provides fresh water and many opportunities for swimming (or getting waterfall massages).

IMG_3736

Fronting Kalalau Valley is the ocean and Kalalau Beach. Kalalau Beach is a gigantic white sand beach that gets washed away every winter and reformed every summer by ocean swells.

Swimming at Kalalau Beach

In the summer months, the ocean here is inviting.

IMG_3942

To experience Kalalau, one must camp here. You’ll need to camp at least 3 nights to appreciate this place. (Camping permits allow for up to 5 nights. Permits are available online.)

The pointy spires and fluted ridges over a white sand beach on Kalalau. Afternoon light. Kauai, Hawaii.

The designated Kalalau camping area runs along the beach. The camp sites are tucked away under the trees and are delineated with stones or branches.

IMG_3347

Many have fire pits built by campers. We brought chicken wire and metal bars to form a light weight hibachi over our fire pit.

The moon shines over the mountain and beach at Kalalau, Kauai, Hawaii.

On our first night we took advantage of the warm summer temperatures and sat out on the beach.

IMG_3357

In the morning I walked out from under the trees to see how the soft light of dawn would illuminate the pali.

IMG_3367

The ocean was calm with only a gentle breeze in the air.

IMG_3379

After a lazy morning at the camp site we made our way to the beach for some body surfing.

A straw hut sits on the white sand of Kalalau Beach. Ocean is so blue.

You can see how far down the beach stretches looking West.

IMG_3384

Looking towards the pali you could see it was shrouded in clouds.

Blue water, white foam, Kalalau Beach.

But the beach, the beach remained sunny and warm.

IMG_3404

After our morning body surfing session we rinsed off the salt water in this waterfall.

IMG_3430

Then we performed our daily chore of fetching water from Kalalau stream. (Note: the water needs to be either filtered or treated.)

Start of the hike into Kalalau Valley.

After lunch and more lounging at the camp site, we hiked into Kalalau Valley.

IMG_3432

In the valley, we were greeted with more views of the cathedral like cliffs surrounding us.

Standing by the outlaw trail in Kalalau Valley.

We explored the waterfalls along Kalalau Stream.

IMG_3455

We made an effort to appreciate all the smaller sights around us (even though we weren’t sure what we were looking at).

The magnificient valley walls of Kalalau Valley.

But of course, the epicness of the mountains surrounding us prevailed in capturing our attention.

IMG_3464

The seemingly unnatural shapes and patterns carved into the mountains made our hike feel surreal.

IMG_3483

When we entered the canopy of the forest, the lushness felt strange given how hot the day was.

IMG_3490

But looking off into the distance we could see the source of this lushness. A waterfall poured out of the mountain.

IMG_3496

We weren’t going to the falls though. We were following Kalalau Stream to a swimming hole.

 

Swinging on rope at Big Pool in Kalalau Valley. Part of Kalalau Stream. Kauai, Hawaii.

The cold water was refreshing after a hike that was more strenuous than I had expected.

IMG_3580

We also submerged ourselves in the small step falls above the pools.

IMG_3585

Kalo grew around the pool adding to the ambiance.

IMG_3584

Looking back towards the ocean we could see the silhouette of the Na Pali. At this moment, I felt very lucky to be with friends in the special place called Kalalau.

IMG_3605

The hike back to camp was pretty much all downhill. We used this return hike as an opportunity to collected firewood. (There’s no firewood available at the campsites.)

IMG_3606

Kurtis hiked for a good two miles with this trophy log. It burned all night.

IMG_3620

After another meal at camp, we rested and set out to try to catch some fish. I don’t spearfish but I was interested in exploring the coastline.

Kalalau Stream and the cliff of Kalalau Valley in the late afternoon. Kauai, Hawaii.

While walking to the fishing spot we crossed Kalalau Stream right where it empties out into the ocean. The view of the mountains from this spot is unreal.

IMG_3642

There are somehow enormous boulders right where the stream and ocean meet.

IMG_3663

We rock hopped down the coast a bit further.

IMG_3655

Then the guys jumped in the water.

IMG_3740

With limited daylight and poor visibility in the ocean we returned to camp empty handed.

IMG_3754

The sun set as we walked back to camp.

Star gazing on Kalalau Beach. Jupiter and Venus are almost touching.

And after dinner we went back out to the beach to check out the stars.

IMG_3763-2

This was right about the time when Jupiter and Venus would meet in the summer sky.

IMG_3766

Looking back towards the pali was like looking into a different world.

Two people walk under the gigantic arch at Honopu Beach on the Na Pali Coast of Kauai, Hawaii.

The next day we woke up early and swam over to Honopu Beach while the ocean was still calm.

IMG_3950

Then we spent a good long time at camp enjoying our break from civilization, internet and cell service.

IMG_3951

We made it a point to watch the beautiful Kalalau sunset on this day.

IMG_3958

The sun cast a warm glow on Kalalau Beach.

IMG_3956

It felt appropriate to highlight this moment, on Kalalau Beach at sunset, with a Padron Family Reserve.

IMG_3986

That night we watched the moon cross the sky over the ridge line.

IMG_3990

The next morning, we jumped back in the water for more body surfing on small but glassy waves.

Mahalo to my friends Dane (@nakadane), Brian (@blam), Sonomi (@lomilomisomi) and Kurtis (@kurtisfunk) for sharing this experience with me.

***

Getting to Kalalau:
It takes a lot of effort to get here. But the greater the, effort the greater the reward right?

  • Kalalau Camping Permits: Camping at Kalalau requires some serious planning as camping permits go fast. Permits area available on Hawaii’s Wiki Permits website.
  • Backpacking to Kalalau: I’ve covered all of the details of how to get here, tips on what to bring and all that stuff in my previous series about the Kalalau Trail. The hike takes a good amount of planning as well. You’ll need to carry your camping gear on your back for 11-miles. The trail is really well maintained though. Learn about the Kalalau Trail.

Should you decide to come to Kalalau yourself, please note that what’s presented here are the best moments from our trip. These photos are meant to show the highlights as many folks will probably never make it out here.

If you are planning to come to Kalalau, it’s probably a good idea to temper your expectations. Kalalau is what you make of it. You’re really roughing it out here. Water and firewood is a mile away from camp. We fought off mosquitos constantly. We pooped in not so savory outhouses. Most of our meals were those dehydrated Mountain House packs. We craved a cold beverage more than anything towards the end of our stay. And we went without internet or cell service for four days. My point is, you really need to like nature to enjoy this place.

Also, while Kalalau is a sacred and spiritual place, it’s a bit crowded out there. So, expect to be surrounded by people. To connect with the place you’ll have to really put in some effort to seek out solitude.

Oh and lastly, pray for good weather.

See also:

This story was last modified on September 14, 2015. (Originally published in July 2015.)

What To Read Next